10 May 2020

From Surrey Heath to Ancient Alexandria


Justin Pollard

History is a very big thing, but working in history can be a surprisingly small world … It’s always nice to bump into old friends and colleagues at unexpected times and in unusual places, and one of the things about working in the museum world which has always made the job more fun is exactly that. The number of times I’ve bumped into people I haven’t seen in years, either in work contexts or popping up on the telly, is something I never really thought about when I was getting started, but it happens now with surprising regularity. Discovering what old friends and acquaintances have been doing, where they’ve ended up, and finding out what they’ve been working on, where it’s led them, and the specialisms they’ve developed since we first met, is always a real pleasure.

Back in the early 1990s, when I was starting out in archaeology and museum work, I used to dig with the Surrey Heath Archaeological & Heritage Trust. I dug on two sites with them, first at Lightwater and then in Bagshot, under the direction of the inimitable Geoff Cole. Both were multi-period sites, but mainly Iron Age and Romano-British at Lightwater, with more Medieval and later elements predominant at Bagshot (the two most remarkable finds at Bagshot, I recall, being a tanning pit complete with paddle, c.1600-1700s, and a Roman "Chi-Rho" monogrammed finger ring made of jet). Digging at these two sites in Surrey, along with volunteering at the British Museum, was what enabled me to get a foot in the door and very likely helped to set me up for my later career in museum-work.

Digging at Lightwater, Surrey, 1992

At the time one of the regular site supervisors on these digs in Surrey was Justin Pollard, who I recall really helped fire my enthusiasm for archaeology and history. I learnt quite a bit from him, not just the basics of excavation techniques but also the rudiments of surveying and site recording; as well as an introduction to environmental archaeology, flotation tanks and the like, from Justin’s partner, Steph. The other thing I learnt was just how convivial archaeology and history can be. If half of all archaeology – a very muddy business, is conducted out in the open air, come rain or shine, the other half undoubtedly takes place in the always clement confines of the local pub! … Historians and archaeologists in particular, especially in Britain, love a decent pint of ale.

In the mid-late 1990s I moved onto digging at a Roman Villa excavation in Northamptonshire (which I’ve written about here), and so, slowly, as is the way with life, over the years I gradually lost my connection to and contact with the Surrey Heath gang of diggers. However, working at the BM I’ve helped to facilitate and supervise many filming sessions, particularly for TV crews. If you are a fan of TV history documentaries the chances are I may well have been standing just off camera on some of the programmes you may have watched. 

Justin was beginning to get involved with TV projects at the time we used to dig together in Surrey, and so it’s always been nice to see his name popping up on TV and film credits over the subsequent years. He’s forged a fantastic career as a writer and historical adviser. His name might not necessarily always be front and centre of the camera, but you will undoubtedly have come across his work. He has advised on films such as the two Cate Blanchett biopics of Queen Elizabeth I, Pirates of the Caribbean 4, and Atonement. He has also written and worked behind the scenes on a number of historical TV documentaries and series, such as Time Team, Vikings, The Tudors, and the Seven Ages of Britain – as well as the very popular, Peaky Blinders and QI. I did bump into Justin very briefly many, many years back when he was working with my colleague Nick Ashton for an episode of Time Team about a Palaeolithic site in Elveden, Suffolk, which was broadcast in early 2000 (see here). Sadly we didn’t get a chance to chat as I was rushing off somewhere in the opposite direction as he was arriving. It was such a long time ago though, that I doubt Justin would remember me if we bumped into one another now!


Interview with Justin Pollard, 2013 (Chalke Valley History Festival)


As well as TV and film work Justin has written a number of history books and articles, many of which you can find listed here on Goodreads

With the help of his friend, the late Terry Jones of Monty Python fame, himself a historian, Justin has also co-founded (with John Mitchinson and Dan Kiernan) a crowd-funded publishing venture, Unbound

You can find out more about Justin’s interesting line of work in the two short accompanying TV interviews, and read about his involvement with making QI here.


Interview with Justin Pollard, 2019 (Breaking the Ice)


Asides from shared roots in archaeology, the other thing I have in common with Justin is a deep interest in the Hellenistic city of ancient Alexandria. A cosmopolitan, scholarly, and deeply modern city, where the Old Testament was famously first translated into Ancient Greek, Alexandria was perhaps the first truly global city, which like its famed lighthouse shone as a beacon of light across the entire ancient world. In the mid-1990s I wrote my Classics A-level dissertation on the Great Library of Alexandria, thereby beginning a lifelong fascination with such learned historical figures as the mathematician and geographer, Eratosthenes who first devised a way to accurately measure the circumference of the Earth; and the poet, Callimachus who invented the library catalogue, and who also is supposed to have said "mega biblion, mega kakon" ("a big book is a big bore") in a literary dispute with Apollonius of Rhodes, author of the epic, Argonautica; and also the truly remarkable  philosopher, astronomer, and mathematician, Hypatia she was a deeply respected scholar and much loved teacher whose very brutal murder shocked the Classical world. So it was a really happy surprise when I recently found Justin's book, The Rise and Fall of Alexandria: Birthplace of the Modern Mind (2006), co-authored with Howard Reid. Justin also wrote and co-produced the documentary, Alexandria – The Greatest City, presented by Bettany Hughes in 2010, which very evocatively brings this wonderful cultural melting pot of an ancient university town vividly to life. 


Alexandria - The Greatest City, 2010 (Lion Television)

So, as I said before, history is a very big thing. But those who venture undaunted into its vast landscape often seem to follow paths which occasionally re-cross over great and improbable stretches of time (those early digging days in deepest Surrey seem so long ago now). Perhaps that’s not so surprising though, as after all we are clearly all fellow time-travellers with kindred passions and deep rooted interests traversing the broad fields of history. In our shared pursuit of the past, in search of the lives of people who lived long before us, we've created interesting lives and scholarly adventures of our own, and that is something well worth raising a glass to, if ever there was cheers!


"Now, here's an interesting thing ..."

1 May 2020

Jongmyo Daeje - Royal Ancestral Hall of the Joseon


Each year on the first Sunday in May the Royal Ancestral Memorial Rite of the Joseon Dynasty is held at the Jongmyo, the Royal Ancestral Shrine of the last Kings of Korea. The Yi family founded the Joseon (Choson) Dynasty in 1392, ruling Korea until 1910 when the monarchy was deposed by the Japanese colonial administration who ruled Korea until the end of the Second World War.

First constructed in 1394 the Jongmyo was built to house the ancestral memorial tablets (Sinju) of the Joseon Royal Family. The building complex has changed over time, notably when it burned down in 1592 during the Imjin War (1592-1598) when Korea was first invaded by neighbouring Japan. It was rebuilt in 1608 and has since been adapted and expanded – for me though it’s one of the old timber buildings surviving in Seoul which genuinely feels old. Many of the other old palaces and city gates have been heavily restored and/or wholly reconstructed in recent years having suffered significant depredations or wholesale destruction during the recent wars and colonial occupation of the city. There’s something very serene about this old building and its weathered flagstone courtyard. I also like its long, low and somewhat understated architecture too. Surrounded by evergreen trees it has a very real sense of atmosphere, ancient and revered.



During the five centuries of Joseon rule the King held ceremonies here five times a year to mark the four seasons and the winter sacrificial day (nabil). The Royal Ancestral Rite held in May was discontinued in 1910 under the Japanese but has since been revived, even though the monarchy itself has not been restored. However, I believe the ceremony is still superintended by descendants of the Royal Family. The ceremony, known as the Jongmyo Daeje, was first witnessed by ordinary folk when the “great rite” (Daeje) was revived in the 1960s. It is a Confucian ritual in which offerings of food and wine are offered up to the departed spirits of the Royal ancestors. Ceremonial recitations are made, traditional court music and dances are performed, with everyone taking part wearing elaborate and colourful traditional courtly costumes. This is the one day of the year when the doors of the spirit chamber (Sinsil) are opened up. Ordinarily when you visit Jongmyo the doors are closed and all you can see is the building’s exterior. The spirit chamber is the place where the mortuary tablets are housed. These tablets are enshrined in spirit chests (Sinjujang) which are located at the rear of the spirit chamber with the King’s tablet stored on the west side and the Queen’s on the east side. The building also contains various other pieces of ritual paraphernalia, such as book chests, parasols, fans, chests containing Royal seals, and other ritual utensils, such as plates, cups, ewers, ladles, and censers. In 1995 UNESCO added Jongmyo and the Royal Ancestral Rite to its list of protected world heritage sites.




When I visited in 2010 sadly I missed the Jongmyo Daeje by only a few days. There is a museum attached to the Jongmyo with two exhibition halls which explain the function of the building, the spirit tablets and their associated rituals, as well as the tenets of Confucianism which prescribe and regulate the manner in which the ancestors should be honoured and remembered. Seeing photographs of this lavish ceremony though it seems to be a fascinating event to witness. I hope I get the chance to go back one day and see it for myself.

















Also on 'Waymarks'