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27 March 2020

Life under "Lockdown" - A London Diary




“All I maintain is that on this earth there are pestilences and there are victims, and it's up to us, so far as possible, not to join forces with the pestilences.”

― Albert Camus, The Plague (1947)


Perhaps understandably I’ve recently found myself thinking a lot about Albert Camus’s novel, La Peste, or The Plague. It began just a couple of weekends ago, when I went to the supermarket only to find all the toilet rolls had sold out. This was quite early on in the current Covid-19 / Coronavirus situation, so it was quite a surprise. I remember it baffled me somewhat. I had heard that there had been a rush of panic buying of toilet rolls in Japan, but that this was because many people there mistakenly thought all toilet paper in Japan was sourced from factories in China, which were likely to be closed down as part of the Chinese Government’s sweeping lockdown in response to the virus which had so recently originated in Wuhan. I think, like a lot of people at that point, I was only vaguely aware of what was going on in China, and, perhaps unconsciously, I had assumed that it would play out much like the previous outbreaks of SARS and bird flu did, with the virus mostly being contained and stopped from spreading beyond Asia. Guilty of Western complacency in that respect, I was very much busy with my own affairs and so not really paying attention.

Looking back though, it was the first trumpet blast. A slightly comical forewarning of what was about to rapidly precipitate out of all control. The thing which struck me most about the nascent panic buying in the UK was that it was probably just a jittery response; something very much in line with the mood of the nation after a fraught year or so of Brexit brinkmanship, in which we were so often told it would be wise to keep our cupboards and larders fully stocked in case we crashed out of the EU without a trade deal and the lorries ceased to roll-on and roll-off at Dover and Calais. I was in the midst of preparing to sell my flat in London and so I was merrily doing the exact opposite, working my way through the contents of my kitchen cupboards, thinning my supplies down and replacing only the bare minimum so as to have less boxes and less weight to shift when it came to moving day. Consequently, I was down to my last loo roll. Finding the shelves at the supermarket totally empty was exasperating and personally inconvenient. I didn’t see it as a red flag, warning of things to come. Instead, all it did was confirm to me what seems to have been self-evident for a year or more – that the UK has gone completely mad.

Albert Camus

But panic is an insidious phenomenon. Once it takes hold it accumulates with a snowball effect. Because the loo roll was selling out, people who seemed to suggest they weren’t so worried about the virus began to buy more when they could find it to ensure they weren’t caught short later on. But then it began to spread. Hand sanitiser, soap were similarly soon depleted. Pasta, rice went next. Rapidly other things began to disappear too. Coronavirus had reached Italy and normal life there was quickly disintegrating. France appeared to be following tout suite. It was only a matter of time until it reached the UK, and when it finally did, we went into a meltdown. Fuelled by the hysteria of the mainstream media (which is essentially a sales technique at best, and socially irresponsible at worst), and a distinctly muddled response from the UK Government, Britain appears to have reaped what has been sowed over the last few years in terms of political division, social atomization, and the deep sense of distrust which seems so all-pervading nowadays. It’s every man and woman for themselves.

In the space of a week I watched as the Tube train on my daily commute thinned out. London very briefly became quite a nice place to be, emptier and less fraught. But it was an odd sort of quiet before the storm. By the end of the week I was one of only two adults in a carriage full of school kids on my morning train. The ratios had been reversed. But by the end of the day the schools had closed, and my Tube carriage was becoming increasingly packed out with builders and business people as the wait between trains had grown longer with the regularity of service clearly beginning to be reduced. At work our managers and IT department had scrambled to get everyone issued with the necessary hardware and software to transfer our office-based tasks to our homes. The quick shift was astonishing; WTF suddenly became WFH. Like most other people, I suspect, I found myself sat at home in a sort of punch-drunk daze, listening to the Prime Minister finally announcing a complete shutdown of the country on Monday evening. How the world turns!



Normal life has stopped. Most of us are now effectively prisoners in our own homes, but far better to be under nominal house arrest than pilloried in the petri dish of public space, awaiting our turn to catch this wretched thing. The Government’s initial and breath-takingly callous idea of “herd immunity”, in which we all meet this bacteriological foe head on, like a herd of lemmings rushing to leap from a cliff edge to our certain demise. Instead, they have realized that our entire social order needs to be recalibrated (in the short term at least), in order to shore up the national and indeed the global economy. But already people are beginning to speculate as to just what kind of global watershed this might end up being. Socially egalitarian optimists are hoping this might herald the collapse of globalized capitalism, others - perhaps more pragmatically - think it might lead to a further entrenchment of the populist far-right, only serving to curb our civil liberties yet further in the name of the greater “common good.” Businesses are either opting to go into aspic, suspended animation or hive hibernation, whilst others are frantically rushing to cut off their excess of employees like septic and infected limbs. The Government have promised an unprecedented “bail out” for those who are salaried, but as yet, those who are self-employed seem to have been left standing on deck in just their peejays and dressing gowns as the last lifeboat departs. There will undoubtedly be a ‘reckoning’ once all of this is over. But, in the end, I fear it will be in the older sense of the word; in that it will be a bill which the Government will expect society to repay with interest once the worst of the crisis has passed.

On a personal level though, living under ‘lockdown’ restrictions is an unprecedented social experiment the likes of which have never been seen before. The technologies which have helped to speed our globalised world up by connecting us more widely and immediately, which so many (even me) have partly blamed for atomising us, in many ways is now coming into its own. Such connectivity will enable us as individuals, as well as business and government corporately, to keep things together, to stop things from falling apart completely. In some ways this is good, but in others it is also bad. It is a curious thing watching my social media channels bifurcate into two camps: those who are shouting at the clouds, and those who are sitting back and laughing at the absurdity of life. It is Camus’s Oran with Wifi.

Mad Max (1979)


The internet memes are simultaneously flippant and profound: How I thought I would behave when the apocalypse arrived = picture of Mel Gibson in 'Mad Max'; how I’ve actually behaved now the apocalypse is here = picture of Jeff Bridges as the dishevelled Dude in 'The Big Lebowski' shopping for a carton of milk in his sunglasses and dressing gown. Or The Beatles, remastered, telling us they want us to wash our hands, so that we won’t “feel crappy inside” … It’s also been joyfully noted that the local council have taken the opportunity presented by the lockdown to repaint the zebra crossing at Abbey Road, given that it's now devoid of tourists and Beatles fans (see here). Then there are the genuine celebrities, lamentable extroverts locked in their own personal Room 101s of self-isolation, courting the cyber-gallery with varying degrees of style and aplomb; from the mawkishly un-self-aware chorus singing John Lennon’s Imagine (all out of key), to those noble old worthies reciting a Shakespeare sonnet a day, and the more wryly astute ones strumming banjos whilst singing daftly endearing ditties. As for myself, my predominantly hermit-like tendencies are standing me in good stead. This first week of self-isolation has actually flown by. Although a strategy of self-limiting my exposure to social and mainstream media has proved both necessary and beneficial. We all need to find our own way through it.

The Big Lebowski (1998)


Less agnostic-types might be inclined to read a lot into the recent weather. After we’ve endured a winter of successive storms and floods, with months of unceasing rain and chill, seemingly coinciding with the advent of the first day of lockdown, the sun has been shining relentlessly in cloudless, clear blue skies utterly devoid of airplane contrails. False prophets have been posting photos of dolphins “reclaiming” the canals of Venice – the water is decidedly clearer, but sadly there are no dolphins (see here). I’m sure the natural world is, and will be increasingly grateful for the temporary breather it’s currently getting from our cancerous Anthropocene. Fake news is telling us that mortal pestilence and human folly are nothing new, when modern-day Samuel Pepys parody accounts get quoted as the man himself – his quill dipping directly into the inkwell of our own present day iniquities (see here). Meanwhile, true to form the most toxic of our leaders all are doing their level best to get some hefty geopolitical leverage over one another; the Chinese Government blaming the CIA and US Government, and tit-for-tat, vice versa, the US Government is doing the same, trying to racialize this as the “Chinese virus” rather than a virus originating from China. It is hard not to see the irony in an unhinged world so intent on putting up borders being assaulted by a common ill that respects neither walls nor human differences, reminding us that underneath our artifice we are all essentially one and the same.

River Thames, London - 3pm, 26 March 2020


It would be nice to think that this global pandemic might stimulate us to rethink the way we live our lives for the greater good. If survival of the fittest doesn’t actually equate to greed, and Gordon Gekko doesn’t end up inheriting the Earth, which seemingly in all other iterations of the virtual 'Matrix' he always does; maybe at least we can reset the self-martyr culture of struggling into work when we have a streaming cold! – Perhaps all this remote working, social distancing, "WFH", will do that anyhow as bosses realise the financial benefits of us all using our own space, time, resources and electricity bills to facilitate our jobs siloed in our amniotic pods at home – The Matrix realised for real. In many ways this whole thing could benefit or back-fire on us as individuals as much as it does for us as connected societies. Who knows what might happen? – It’s currently extremely hard to imagine us going back to the same sense of normal, particularly if this goes on for months as some people are predicting.

The Matrix (1999)


On a day-to-day level though, there is a lot to be learned from re-reading and thinking about Camus’s The Plague. I first read it when I was around 17 years old. I read it knowing it was an allegory for the Nazi occupation of France during the Second World War, but I remember I was most struck by its intense realism. The way it imagined for me (or rather recalled/was inspired by Camus’s own experience) a progression through the stages of social panic and the moral dilemmas that a pandemic quarantine situation invoked in those whose freedom had been removed, and then the slough of ennui that later ensued with the slowing down of time; the gradual acceptance and complacency which sets in as people calm down and learn to live with the stifling state of terminal decay. I keep thinking of the character sitting in his room quietly shelling peas into a pan. I relish the fact I no longer need to set my alarm clock each night. I get up and get on with things quite early anyway, in accord with my natural rhythms. Yet each morning I am minded of Camus’s novel as I look out of my window and see my neighbours are opening their blinds and drawing their curtains ever later in the day.

River Thames, London - 3pm, 26 March 2020


I went to the supermarket yesterday for the first time in over a week, the first time I’d been out since the lockdown came into place. London is eerily quiet. I walked down my street and then along the Thames. It was mid-afternoon, around 3pm. There wasn’t the sound of a single motor engine within earshot. Not a boat, nor a plane, nor a car. The tide was at its highest and there was that profound sense of stillness and calm which the Thames has when it is in equilibrium – the river neither flowing out, nor the tide pushing in. The riverside walkway, however, was alive with lycra-clad joggers and cyclists exercising with a manic and distinctly aggressive sense of assertiveness. Some elements of this new social control evidently are still a little bit febrile. Around Cabot Square in Canary Wharf though, there was a surreal sight of empty red buses and black taxis dancing in reels. The scheduled bus service running to an immaculate timetable due to the lack of other traffic or even passengers. Inside Canary Wharf all the shops were dark and locked up with all lights out. Only the supermarkets and pharmacies open, with people queuing patiently outside at two metre intervals. The new regimen of social conformity being uneasily adhered to. This new norm is definitely an improvement on the selfish frenzy which had preceded on my last visit, even though some shelves still seem to have a Soviet-style starkness as they remain stripped bare. How much longer will it be until some of us are wistfully longing for oranges from Spain? (I already am) – There will be such knock-on effects if the skies stay clear of contrails for too long. Perhaps national self-sufficiency will be something the British public comes to demand just as keenly as self-sovereignty in our post-Brexit, post-pandemic future?

Asides from all the memes and fake news, there have been some seemingly absurd things said in all seriousness on both mainstream and social media channels of late. Often invoking wartime rhetoric in the best blandishments of the Brexit tradition. Working from home championed as a kind of "digital Dunkirk." Calling for a laudable Blitz-like sense of community spirit with everyone pulling together, whilst lamenting and equally lambasting the fact that not even the Blitz closed down the pubs. Some people decrying the nanny state whilst simultaneously demanding the Government “sort this bluddy mess out!” – Overlooking the fact that the Blitz and its Nazi bombs weren’t exactly contagious. My grandparents weathered the worst of the Blitz only a couple of streets away from where I live here in the heart of London's docks. And my great grandparents weathered the last great global pandemic in 1918 when my grandparents were still only new-born babes in their arms. In many ways whilst our current collective predicament might be unique, it is far from unprecedented. It is right that we should all applaud the NHS, and deplore the decade of austerity which has cut it back to the bone. I really wish those generations which have gone before were here now and could tell us how they handled it all. Picking up a book such as Camus’s The Plague, or J. G. Ballard’s Empire of the Sun for that matter, is perhaps one way of engaging with their past.

Indeed, in some senses Camus’s allegory has been flipped back upon itself as those in good health and good jobs inadvertently or unthinkingly side with the plague in seeking to carry on with their lives, socialising and commuting as normal. Meanwhile the Police in Derbyshire are using drones to harass people going for solitary walks far from the (potentially contagious) madding crowd deep in the countryside (see here). Escapism could well soon be in short supply. Oddly enough, when the pandemic took hold in the UK I was part way through re-reading James Hilton’s Lost Horizon, perhaps unconsciously prompted by a longing to seek out my own escapist Shangri-La. Hilton’s words seemed to chime oddly with the current sense of global collapse as it was occurring: “... the question of his exploits and identity faded instantly into the background, save for a single phrase of his - "the whole game's going to pieces." Conway found himself remembering and echoing it with a wider significance than the American had probably intended; he felt it to be true of more than American banking and trust company management. It fitted Baskul and Delhi and London, war making and empire building, consulates and trade concessions and dinner parties at Government House; there was a reek of dissolution over all that recollected world, and Barnard's cropper had only, perhaps, been better dramatised than his own. The whole game was doubtless going to pieces, but fortunately the players were not as a rule put on trial for the pieces they had failed to save. In that respect financiers were unlucky.
But here, at Shangri-La, all was in deep calm. In a moonless sky the stars were lit to the full, and a pale blue sheen lay upon the dome of Karakul. Conway realized then that if by some change of plan the porters from the outside world were to arrive immediately, he would not be completely overjoyed being spared the interval of waiting. And neither would Barnard, he reflected with an inward smile.”

Where will we all be in a few weeks’ time? – Will this thing wear us down to the point where we all become of one mind, at least in the sense of seeing that some aspects of our society might need to be modified? And if we do, how will we come to collectively agree on a new way forward? – I venture no prophecies, no speculations of impending doom or of unicorn-populated utopias ahead. One thing we have been gifted though – that is, those of us fortunate enough not to have caught the virus yet and living under lockdown in the comforts of our own homes – is time. Having been forcibly taken there without his consent, rather like the lockdown which has been imposed upon us, Hugh Conway gradually comes to realise that this is what Shangri-La has given him, as the Head Lama explains: “And, most precious of all, you will have Time - that rare and lovely gift that your Western countries have lost the more they have pursued it. Think for a moment. You will have time to read - never again will you skim pages to save minutes, or avoid some study lest it prove too engrossing.” – All we can do right now is hunker down, and read and reflect, as our lives and the world we live in slows down in a way which none of us have ever known or experienced before. We live in interesting times for sure.


- Albert Camus, The Plague (1947)


1 March 2020

Red Fort at Tamsui


My first visit to Taiwan was unexpected and entirely unplanned. I’d been working in Beijing and then Shanghai for over a month in the summer of 2006 when I was suddenly asked to fly onwards to Taipei to attend a meeting at the National Palace Museum. I had been due to travel onwards to Tokyo on leave once I’d finished in Shanghai but thankfully my leave was delayed rather than cancelled in order to accommodate this little detour. The changes to my travel arrangements all happened so quickly that it was only whilst I was in transit (i.e. – actually sitting on the plane flying to Taipei, via Macau, and now coming in to land), when it first occurred to me that I had no idea whether or not I needed a visa to enter Taiwan! – Looking back, I don’t suppose they would have let me board the plane had a needed one, but nevertheless, I still felt a little uneasy as I wandered through the airport terminal towards the immigration counters not knowing what to expect – but then I saw a big sign directing (and more importantly listing) the visa exempt countries to a particular queue. I breathed a huge sigh of relief as it felt like a minor diplomatic faux pas had been narrowly averted. 













It was around this time too that I was just getting started on my research into the colonial era in China and Tibet, and the history of the British Consular Service in China in particular – hence I was rather intrigued to see the flag of the old Republic still flying proudly over the airport in Taipei. Indeed, the landing card I had to fill out was headed ‘The Republic of China (ROC).’ I’d never really thought about this fact before. I knew this island was where the KMT (Kuomintang) had retreated to in 1949 when they were ousted following the civil war with the CCP (Chinese Communist Party), but growing up in the UK it had always been referred to as ‘Taiwan’ and so that’s how I had always thought of it up until that moment. Realising I still had much to learn this initial trip only served to deepen my curiosity. I’m sure it was in a large part due to this quirk of fate, working on so many exhibitions in Asia at this time, that I was drawn deeper and deeper into the topic which would eventually turn into the research for my current PhD studies. Indeed this was only the first of many such trips to Taiwan, working on a number of different exhibition projects with colleagues who have become close friends at the National Palace Museum. And similarly, several more times working in Shanghai with good friends at the Shanghai Museum as well. In both cities I spent my free time exploring the old colonial remnants, hunting out old buildings from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries built variously by the banks, trading companies, and government officials of America, Japan, and several different European countries, including Britain. The colonial building which interested me most in Taipei was the Red Fort at Tamsui (or Danshui, meaning ‘fresh water’ 淡水).





Tamsui is actually situated some ten miles or so downriver from the centre of Taipei. It is very easy to reach on the city’s Metro system, with Tamsui located at the end of the Tamsui-Xinyi (or Red) line. The last couple of miles of the train ride into Tamsui has some spectacular views of the river which has stretches of mangrove trees growing along the water’s edge. Taiwan is the most northerly latitude at which you will find mangroves. It makes for a wonderful sight with the towering peak of Guanyin Mountain rising up from the opposite shore. There’s quite a lot of wildlife to see here too. My friends and I were all mesmerised to see an army of colourful crabs, each with one enormous claw hand, aggressively picking rather comical-looking fights with one another in the mud at low tide. Being so close to Taipei, Tamsui is a popular spot for a day-out at weekends. It has the feel of a seaside holiday town with souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes lining the riverside promenade with people strolling along eating ice cream and candyfloss in the sunshine. Regular boat trips head across the river, and then carry on down to the point where the river meets the open sea before turning back; you can hop on and off the boats in order to explore along the way. It was on such a boat trip that I first caught a glimpse of the Red Fort – rather fittingly, as this is how most old colonial types would have first seen it when arriving by steamer, as the Tamsui River was the main northern trading port on Taiwan, or Formosa, as the island was more commonly known at the time (the principal southern port being at Takow, or present day Kiaohsiung).

Red Fort, Tamsui, 1925





The Red Fort has a long history dating back to 1628 when a wooden fort was built here by the Spanish, who named it Fort San Domingo. The fort was later destroyed by the Spanish shortly before they quit it in 1642, when conceding defeat in a short battle with the Dutch who felt that the Spanish were unjustly impinging upon their established trade interests in the region. The Dutch rebuilt the fort, but this time it was much stronger and more substantial having been built using brick and stone. The Dutch renamed it Fort Antonio, after the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, Anthony Van Diemen. Essentially, excepting a few architectural modifications carried out over the intervening years, it is still this building which stands today. The government of the Qing Dynasty took over control of the fort from 1683 to 1867. During this period the Chinese added a stone wall to enclose the entire compound with four gateways (only one of which still survives). The fort became the diplomatic base of the British at the close of the second Opium War in 1868. The British took on a lease of the site in perpetuity, paying the Qing government “10 silver coins” a year to use the site as a Consulate (I’m not sure if that’s ten taels or ten silver dollars Mex., but I suspect the latter). And it was the British who first painted it red, however, it had been known as the red fort before this because the locals had referred to the Dutch as “red-haired people” – previously the fort had always been painted white. Wandering around the place today it can feel eerily evocative, especially if you find yourself alone in some of the long forgotten rooms. The fort and consular residence still have that faded air and atmosphere of exile characteristic of a good setting for a short story by Joseph Conrad. It’s easy to imagine stumbling upon a Kaspar Almayer, an Axel Heyst, or a Lord Jim-type lounging in the humid torpor of one of the back rooms; a ceiling fan turning languidly overhead as our despondent colonial antihero sits dosing in an armchair, his head resting on a starched anti-macassar, and the half-smoked stub of a forgotten cheroot lazily smouldering between his dangling fingers …

Consul's Residence, Tamsui, 1891





Consul's Residence, Tamsui, 1911






In 1891 the British upgraded the Consul’s residence, adding a second storey. Built of red brick it is a classic example of Victorian-era colonial architecture. Wide verandas with ornate green ceramic balustrades surround each floor, helping to keep the interior shaded and cool during the intense heat and humidity of the summertime. It looks very similar to the old consular residence, built around the same time, which still stands in the grounds of the British Embassy in Seoul. I had a good view of this old building from my hotel room during one of my stays in Seoul whilst working on an exhibition at the National Museum of Korea in 2010 (I was sure I’d taken a photograph of this building, but if I did frustratingly I now can’t find it!). We were lucky enough on that trip to get to know the Ambassador and were even invited to drinks at the Embassy, but delays caused by the eruption of the Icelandic volcano, Eyjafjallajökull, meant we had to work late in order to get the exhibition open on time and so sadly we weren’t able to take up his very kind offer. I was deeply disappointed at the time (and still am actually) as I was dying to get a closer look at this old consulate building. I was also dying to know if the Ambassador really would “spoil us with Ferrero Rocher chocolates” too!








Herbert Allen Giles
The red fort and consular residence at Tamsui were staffed by a number of different consuls through the years, some more notable than others. The most notable for my family was Sir Alwyne Ogden who was here for a time in the mid-twentieth century. In 1922 he was the acting-consul at Chengdu in Sichuan who officiated at the marriage ceremony of Louis King and Rinchen Lhamo, apparently amidst exploding shells – rather like the dinner scene from Carry On Up the Khyber, one imagines! (see here). The most notable resident though was undoubtedly Herbert Allen Giles, who was Consul at Tamsui from 1885 to 1891. Giles went on to become the most famous sinologist of his time. He was Professor of Chinese at Cambridge University for 35 years. His greatest work was perhaps his modification of the romanisation system of Chinese, originally devised by Thomas Wade, which remained the standard form until the official introduction of Pinyin in 1958 by the government of the People’s Republic (mainland China). Use of the Wade-Giles system persists in the instance of certain well-known personal and place names, particularly in Taiwan. One of Giles’ sons, Lionel, also a sinologist, was Keeper of Oriental Antiquities at the British Museum from 1936 to 1940. Another son, Lancelot, like his father before him entered the Consular Service in China. Soon after joining the Service Lancelot was present at the siege of the Legations in Peking (Beijing) during the Boxer Uprising in the summer of 1900 – he wrote a diary of the siege in the form of letters to his father, which I wrote about for the Royal Asiatic Society in Shanghai’s China Journal (see here). The National University of Australia holds a fantastic archive of photographs of early twentieth century China from Lancelot’s family (see here).







The old fort and consular residence were eventually returned to the authorities in Taiwan by the British Government in 1980. It has been listed for preservation as a site of important cultural interest, and following the completion of restoration works in 2005 it has been open to the public as a museum. I’ve visited it several times since my first glimpse of it from a boat zipping up the Tamsui River in early 2007. As a British person it’s quite interesting (and rather amusing) to see the urban archaeology of what odds and ends HM Government left behind which have been exhumed and dusted off for display – I was particularly tickled by the “official chops”, or rubber stamps “supplied for the Government Service” by HMSO, which the museum now have neatly arrayed in showcases. Even today official stamps very similar to these ones are still in daily use where I work at the British Museum! … It’s interesting too that even the Monarch herself got left behind in this seemingly long forgotten old colonial outpost ... God Save the Queen, eh! – I’m glad though when lovely old buildings such as this one have been saved and preserved for the future. So often these days the fate of such historic buildings is that they are knocked down, or gutted and converted into a swanky bar or restaurant. I wonder what old Herbert Allen Giles would make of the place now?



Further Reading:

P. D. Coates, The China Consuls: British Consular Officers, 1843-1943 (Oxford University Press, 1988)

D. C. M. Platt, The Cinderella Service: British Consuls since 1825 (Longman, 1971)